March 19, 2011
Earlier this month, I had the pleasure of going to Guerrero Negro, Mexico to do a little whale watching. Guerrero Negro is about half way down the Baja Peninsula on the Pacific side, and is the northern most city in Baja Califonia Sur. Tillie Foster of the San NicoIas Hotel put this group of about thirty people together, twenty or so live in Mexico, and the other ten were from the states. Our chartered bus left Ensenada at about 7:30am on Monday morning, March 7, and we began the eleven hour journey to Guerrero Negro. One of the reasons it took us about eleven hours is that we stopped for a leisurely two hour lunch at Mama Espinoza's in El Rosario where many in our group started lunch with margaritas and beer since we were in no hurry. By the way, lunch was fabulous, especially the lobster burritos.
Here is our bus and driver Raul stopped at Mama Espinoza's for lunch.

We continued our journey south, and a little later we made a second stop in Cataviña. Just so you know, it's a two lane highway all the way, so our driver Raul had to maneuver the bus carefully, and he was excellent at keeping things smooth through the hills and switchbacks. The road itself was in great shape, but it is definitely a rural highway as we had to stop twice for cows on the highway. Cataviña is 118 kms or about 74 miles south of El Rosario and the boulder fields just north of Cataviña are some of the most spectacular in all of Mexico. All types of cactus growing between the rocks adds to the beauty of this place. We stopped for about 30 minutes at the La Pinta Hotel to stretch our legs, use the facilities, and admire the beautiful scenery. Cataviña is part of the Valle de los Cirios.
I shot this photo from just behind the La Pinta Hotel.

We departed Cataviña and Raul drove us non-stop to Guerrero Negro, arriving at about 6:30pm. Because we had crossed into the State of Baja California Sur, it was necessary for us to set our watches ahead one hour. Time to check into the hotel, grab a shower, dinner, and get some rest for our first morning on the water with the whales. Most of the group stayed at the Los Caracoles Hotel, while a few others stayed at the nearby Cowboy Hotel.
Hotel Los Caracoles

The next morning, we were picked up at 7am from our hotels and whisked over to Mario's Tours and Restaurant. This was to be our first morning with the whales, and Tillie had arranged a group breakfast and briefing so that we would know what to expect as we got out to the lagoons. Breakfast was great and soon we were in the briefing room with Cynthia, who was telling us about the migrating patterns of the gray whales. The gray whale migrates between its summer feeding grounds in the North Pacific and Bering Sea and its winter breeding grounds in the lagoons of Baja California, a round trip of 12,0000 miles. She shared with us that the gray whales have been visting the lagoons of Mexico for thousands of years, and that they begin arriving as early as mid December. It's usually the males that go in first to scout out any trouble and take care of any problems, then the females and babies come in and stay until the end of March. In late March / early April, they begin their three month, 6,000 mile journey up along the Pacific Coast to the Bering Sea of Alaska where they will feed for approximately the next ninety days, and around the end of September, they commence their journey back to the lagoons of Mexico and so the cycle goes year after year. Cynthia also stated that these gray whales live to be 60-80 years old, and for the most part, the females calve every other year with the gestation period being 12 to 13 months. The gray whales feed in Alaska primarily on bottom zooplankton during the summer months, and although some instances of feeding have been reported during the migration route and in Baja California, it is believed that the bulk of their nutrition is taken in their polar feeding grounds.
Our guide Cynthia in the briefing room

Finally, it was time to head for the lagoons. We reboarded the same buses and took the quick twenty minute trip through the town of Guerrero Negro and the grounds of the world's largest salt exporting company to our launching point. Once we arrived, everyone was encouraged to use the facilities because we were going to be on the water for the next three hours. Each of us was also given a poncho or raincoat and a lifejacket before we boarded one of three different pangas, each with it's own Spanish speaking guide.
Our pangas

This particular morning was overcast, windy, and even a little chilly, so the ponchos and lifejackets were a welcome addition. The water looked a little rough and I thought, "Oh boy, I hope I don't get seasick," which I have been known to do, especially on the fishing boats off southern California. It didn't take long to get going, and soon we were racing through the water, out to the Ojo de Liebre lagoon where we hoped to see and get close to many of the whales. We weren't disappointed, and it wasn't long before nearly everyone in the boat was shouting and pointing, "There's one! There's another one and her baby at 2 o"clock!" They were just about everywhere. I particularly enjoyed when it was quiet for a moment. All of a sudden, we heard a whale breach the surface and exhale loudly, spraying water about ten feet in the air. We turned to look, and many times, they were less than ten feet away, just sort of checking us out as well. Several times the whales just came and hung along side of our boat, and let us pet them and touch them many, many times. It was breathtaking!
Here are some shots of the whales that morning.


First touch

It's difficult to explain here in this forum just how exciting this day was, and everyone in the boats was smiling and happy. Before we knew it, our time was up, and we were racing back to the launching docks. The drivers headed for the coast of the lagoon where the water was much smoother, and we just seemed to skip along the surface. If we saw something interesting, like a bird formation, sea lions basking on a buoy, or an osprey and babies in their nest, our guide always stopped the boat and let us view for a few mimutes before continuing the journey back to home base.
Some of our sea lion friends

An osprey with babies in the nest

Once at the docking point, we quickly jumped out of the boats and into the bus for the trip back to the hotel. On the way back to the hotel, everyone was talking excitedly about their day with the whales and, in all of our opinions, it had been a wonderful success. As an added bonus, I didn't get seasick and we still had another session scheduled for the following morning. The rest of the day was ours to explore and do whatever we wanted. We were scheduled to meet at 8am the following morning to head out to the launching point, and I was already excited about the prospect of another session in the Ojo de Liebre lagoon!
Wednesday morning was perfect. The sky was an incredible blue with not a cloud in sight. The winds were very calm...it was going to be a very good day with the whales. Just as scheduled, we boarded Mario's bus at 8 am, and headed to the launching area. No need for a brief today, as we were now seasoned veterans. Right! Again, they handed us ponchos and lifejackets, but because it was quite a bit warmer than the previous morning, I was able to peel a layer off, and leave it on the bus. I wasn't going to need it today. Soon we were once again racing out to the Ojo de Liebre lagoon, however, today the ride was much smoother, and it felt as if we were just hovering along the surface. We quickly spotted the water spouts and again, they were everywhere.
Here are some photos from the second day on the water.

Here is a mom and baby





Toward the end of our session on the water, a mom and baby decided they wanted to hang out near our boat and get to know us a little better. I just couldn't believe how much time they spent with us just going up and down each side of the boat letting everyone pet them numerous times. It was just unbelievable how special an experience this turned out to be!
Our guide once again turned the panga towards home base, and spooled up the engine to begin our skim across the surface as we headed to shore. We stopped to see more sea lions, and more osprey nests, but the most interesting thing to me was the sand dunes along the shore of the lagoons. They were just beautiful.
Here's a photo of the dunes surrounding the Ojo de Liebre.

That afternoon, Tillie had scheduled us for a tour of the salt exporting company and that, in itself, was quite amazing....but that's a whole different blog.